Conquering William Hill

If you’ve been following my adventures for a while, you might have noticed that I’m a big fan of forest hikes. This time though, I decided to try something different. It would be a challenge on several levels: we were leaving early morning, the destination being the hot and dry Maau Mahiu landscape, and this would be my longest hike so far (28Km). It was both daunting and exciting.

And so on that morning I set out, extremely sleep deprived. I barely made it to the CBD in time and began looking for the matatu stage downtown. Following the directions from a security guard, I finally found the Nyamakima stage where the other hikers were waiting. We were using two matatus this time and I joined the first group.

When the vehicle was full, we set off. The morning was nicely cool but I knew we’d be battling the sweltering heat in no time. The drive went well and at least there were no traffic jams this time. Group 2 took quite a while to depart as they waited for passengers to fill the matatu, so we left them behind.

View of Mt. Longonot with forest in the foreground.
Absolutely stunning- view of Mt. Longonot last year.

As we approached Maau Mahiu View Point, we were greeted with spectacular views of Mt. Longonot and the valley below. It was similar to what I experienced during the Kianugu hike last year. Normally the area is quite hazy which obstructs the views. The old church built by Italian prisoners of war was our starting point and there we alighted.

Small church built by Italian POWs in Kenya.
The small church built by Italian POWs in 1942.

Time for our warm up stretches and as usual, the passersby gave us curious looks. It’s always interesting seeing people’s reactions to our enthusiasm and hiking gear. The guide gave us a hike briefing then we started off. We agreed to go at a moderate pace to allow group 2 to catch up later.

We had to trek before getting to the foot of the hill and at first it was alright. But soon we realized it would be no walk in the park. The heat was already threatening and my legs started complaining. Add sleep deprivation to the mix and you got the perfect trifecta. Oh, and lorries going to and from a quarry left us coated in dust.

At least the landscape views gave us some relief on this hike before the hike. About half an hour later, we met our local guide at a small shopping centre. We paid a community appreciation fee then set off with the guide, immediately encountering a steep incline. After a while we came to a lodge in the perfect bush setting, but it was closed. We took refuge on the porch to hydrate and cool off. Already we were sweating seriously and the main hike was yet to begin!

We walked, walked and walked in the blazing heat then finally got to the foot of William Hill. Looking at the summit, I started questioning the life decisions that led me here. Did I really leave the comfort of my house to suffer on this hill? But here we were, and there was no turning back now. A short break then we began tackling the hill.

Hikers on a trail
Facing the challenge head-on.

The slope was crazy steep, rocky and covered with thorny plants. A mostly cloudless sky meant the sun was roasting us a good one. As we ascended my breathing became a bit strained- not sure if it had anything to do with elevation gain.

Apart from the guides, most of us realized we had chewed more than we could swallow. This hill was not a joke! We had to stop often for breaks to avoid overworking our bodies too early. Constant hydration is key in a situation like this, and that’s what we did.

I kept myself motivated with positive self-talk. “You’re doing so well. Look how far you’ve come, you’re so strong. It’s hard, but you can do this.” The first time I saw a YouTuber doing this, it looked ridiculous. But it actually works! And sometimes there’s no one to motivate you so you have to cheer yourself on- both on the trails and in life situations.

Recording the bird species I saw and heard also distracted me from the difficulty of the hike. It was awesome to hear Blue-naped Mousebirds again since my last time in Magadi in 2020. During the breaks I would also take in the views. Seeing Mt. Longonot, Suswa, a section of the Aberdares and the vast plain stretching before us made the gruelling climb worth it.

Panoramic views at Maai Mahiu, Kenya.
Views for days.

We struggled and struggled, taking it slowly until…we got to the top of the hill! Looking at where we came from, I couldn’t believe it. We had conquered the mighty William. The only downside was the lack of tree cover to offer shade after that uphill battle. 😩

Author on a hike at Maai Mahiu, Kenya.
I made it!

I didn’t realize how hungry I was until I cleared my apple in seconds. My decision to carry extra snacks that day was a lifesaver. The hill had zapped so much energy out of me, and my fellow hikers shared the same sentiment. We took a nice, long break as we waited for those who were still behind.

Later we learnt that one person had an injury flare-up and couldn’t continue with us. One of the guides had to call a bike rider to take her to the main road. I guess she had underestimated the level of the injury she got on a previous hike. There’s a lesson to be found in there somewhere.

Having rested enough, we carried on. The next section of the trail was through a residential area. I took advantage and searched for a washroom with another hiker. A man at a shop not only allowed us to use their facility, but offered us cold drinking water as well! It’s incredible how kind and welcoming people in rural areas are to weary travellers.

We had to rush to catch up with the rest who seemed to be powered by jet engines. It took us quite a while to find them. By this time I wished that I could teleport to the end point because I was beyond exhausted. But we still had some distance to go.

Across the tarmac, through a forest with incredibly tall trees, then back to a residential area. My shins were on fire but I was determined to finish the hike. Just when I thought I couldn’t take it anymore, I saw a wetland that looked strikingly similar to Manguo swamp. And that’s because it was. Unbelievable. I really had trekked from Maai Mahui to Limuru!

I took a moment to congratulate myself for this achievement, then recorded the waterfowl present at the swamp. This was the hike will the highest number of birds I’ve logged so far: 49 species. We took some photos then walked across the wetland to Limuru town.

Manguo swamp, Kenya.
A relaxing end to the hike.

We did stretches to ease our muscles before heading home. The guides informed us that we had done 24Km instead of 28. The other kilometres were shaved off because it was getting late. I can only imagine how exhausted I would have been if we’d done the full 28.

And with that, it was time to go home. I was totally worn out but proud of myself for going beyond my physical and mental limits. On to the next, let’s see what the rest of the year holds!